SOLUNSKA GLAVA

Тhe highest rock in Macedonia

The rock is composed of limestone with admixtures (brown-red color), which is why it is characterized by fragility. The friability varies in different parts of the rock, the southern rock has the best compactness.
In the locality there are about 30 routes of different difficulty and length. Eastern rock is divided into four heads with directions up to 450 meters long and the southern rock (Mokar kamen) with directions up to 900 meters long.
Equipment of the routes: Some routes are equipped with climbing pitons, and some have no pitons at all.
Exposure (orientation): Eastern rock, as the name suggests, it faces east orientation and the southern rock (Mokar kamen) has a southern orientation.
Grading: Grading is per UIAA e.g. (III /V+) direction weight is (III) with details of (V+).

Approach to Nezhilovi karpi: (There are two basic variants.)
First is through the spring of the river Babuna, and then along the central canyon above the spring through a very wild area, overcoming difficulties from II to III, you reach the bottom of the amphitheater under the rock, the time required for the approach is from 3 to 5 hours.
The second variant is along a marked path to the top of Solunska glava and we climb from the upper edge of the rock. The first abseil line is on the first head, it is made with climbing wedges, it is about 250 meters long and has 5 lengths of 50 meters each. The second abseil line is at the end of the plateau where the final climb to the summit begins. The abseil line has expansion wedges and is 6 lengths with 60 meters of rope; the duration and length of the approach is shorter than the previous variant.

1Велешки 1III200m
2Лево ребро на првата главаII/III250m
3Средно ребро на првата главаIII200m
4Абзел линија 2011III250m
5ДеметраIII230m
6Десно ребро на првата главаIII250m
7Жлебот во втората главаIII450m
8Работ на третата главаIII/IV450m
99.? (400m)?400m
9a9a.?(400m)?400m
1010.? (300m)?300m
11Абзел линија 2007III /IV310m
12Четири клинаIV-400m
13Лево реброIII/IV700m
14ЧеплесIII/IV800m
15Прва РампаVI+600m
16Централна насокаV700m
17ВоскресениеIII/V+900m
18Жупанчичева насокаIII / IV900m
19ЦСКIII+/V+900m
20Кикиева насокаIII+/V+900m
Тhe routes are documented and marked by Boban Stojanov
Photographed and marked by Boban Stojanov
Photographed and marked by Boban Stojanov
Photographed and marked by Boban Stojanov
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